ALWAYS DISCONNECT POWER BEFORE WORKING WITH ANY ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
Remove and clean the coin mechanism. Clean it with a non-residue cleaner such as lacquer thinner or similar solvent. Make sure any metal shavings are wiped from the magnet. If coins are sticking at the magnet, turn the adjustment screw in ½ turn. Lubrication: No additional lubrication is needed if the mechanism is kept clean as explained above. The use of any type of oil, lubricating spray, or graphite is NOT recommended.
Except for this first step, cleaning should only be done with the machine unplugged. Poor acceptance may be due to dirty sensor “eyes”. Cut a dollar-size piece of heavy paper--use the back page of a tablet. Dampen it with glass cleaner, and with power applied, attempt to run it through the bill path several times. Remove power and spray a small amount of glass cleaner into the bill pathway and blow it out with air pressure, or use it on cotton swabs. Be sure the acceptor is dry before power is reapplied. If these methods do not correct the problem, or the acceptor is not working at all, it will need to be sent in for repair. Instructional inserts come with acceptors and can be found with the original paperwork. If yours is missing, call for another one.
Check the control solenoid by removing the ¼” line from the body of the solenoid to the non-pressure side of the valve. If water runs from the solenoid body, it is leaking and needs to be replaced. The seat disc in the valve may be worn or sand may be lodged under the disc. Dissemble and clean the big valve. Both standard, rubber, and metal repair kits are available. Call for help.
Be sure that the solenoid ports are correct. Reversed ports will cause the valve to open when NOT energized. Note the numbers stamped into the solenoid body. Aquamatic and CLA valves: 1 – Down to the non-pressure (outlet) side of the big valve; 2 - Up to the top of the big valve. OCV valves: Ports are reversed. i.e.: 1- Up; 2 - Down.
A plugged inlet screen will cause slower and slower closure until the valve will not close at all. The screen is built in to the brass fitting that screws directly into the valve body--ahead of the control solenoid--on the inlet (pressure) end. Remove and clean the screen. Using air pressure, blow backwards through the solenoid and all ¼” water lines. Replace as necessary. If you are unfamiliar with the quick-disconnect lines, please call for instructions.
The timer or coin switch may be shorted. If so, there will be 120v power to the valve (black wire) at all times. Disconnect power and check both items using a meter to be positive. Isolate and test the coin switch across its two terminals. The circuit is open when the trip wire is up. Inserting a coin makes momentary contact. If you do not have a meter, you should be able to hear and feel the switch click on and off as it is tripped manually. If the wire is stuck down, or a coin is stuck in the channel, readjust or replace as necessary.
If the coin switch checks out OK but the valve opens when power is reconnected, the timer is shorted and must be replaced.
Be sure the machine is plugged in and has power. Intermittent problems: Insure that all connections are tight and making positive contact. This includes the 22ga wires and their multi-plugs.
The STOP switch may be open. It is a normally closed switch. On older machines, disconnect power and bypass the switch by twisting the yellow and white wires from the timer together. If the machine operates, replace the switch. Newer units use a contact block. Jumper across the terminals. If the machine operates, replace the contact block.
When energized, 120v is sent from the timer to the control solenoid. If that is proven, disconnect power and ohm the solenoid coil. If an open circuit is found, replace the solenoid.